Tulamben (Bali) vs. North Sulawesi (Lembeh, Bunaken, and Bangka): How to Choose Between Two Excellent Dive Destinations

I. Introduction

• The Hook: Indonesia covers a large part of the Coral Triangle – the global epicenter of marine biodiversity. It boasts multiple world-class areas for scuba diving, making it hard to choose where to go on your first trips. The “North Sulawesi Trio” (Bunaken, Bangka, Lembeh) offers an incredible variety of highlights, but there are other wonderful regions worth comparing. Tulamben in Northern Bali is one of these amazing options: it has a lot more to offer than most divers expect and is less covered in reports compared to other awesome alternatives in Indonesia, such as Raja Ampat.
• The Problem: Tulamben is much better connected, and Bali has many attractions beyond scuba diving. Tulamben offers world-class muck diving and you don’t have to change accommodations to experience some other scuba diving highlights too. Manado airport in Northern Sulawesi is less well-connected, and it takes more time and different accommodations to explore all the highlights of the outstanding “Trio” (Bunaken, Bangka, Lembeh). If you have to choose, is the extra effort for North Sulawesi worth it? The answer certainly depends on your interests and constraints (time, group of travellers, etc.).
• Article Overview: I hope the comparison in this article helps you make a decision if you cannot visit all of these wonderful areas. The last section offers a brief summary of decision-making parameters.

II. Round 1: The Muck & Macro Face-Off (Tulamben vs. Lembeh)

• Lembeh Strait: Considered the “gold standard” for critter hunting, Lembeh features pure black sand, minimal current, and a staggering density of rare creatures (hairy frogfish, blue-ringed octopuses, flamboyant cuttlefish) alongside other wonderful species (seahorses, a variety of octopuses, shrimp, nudibranchs, etc.). If you are eager to close specific gaps on a “critter bucket list,” Lembeh is an excellent option.
• Tulamben: Within the community of nudibranch enthusiasts, Tulamben is already known as one of the best places to visit (probably outperforming Lembeh). However, there is so much more: you can actually find most species from Lembeh in Tulamben as well. The variety of shrimp, crabs, and seahorses can compete very well with Lembeh, and you will also find many rare species in both areas, such as Rhinopias or the stargazer. Tulamben also features different octopus species, though regarding overall octopus population and variety, Lembeh wins. Like Lembeh, Tulamben offers great photo conditions on black sand and sometimes wins on visibility. Currents are usually minimal, just like in Lembeh. In my personal opinion, based on multiple visits, the gap between Lembeh and Tulamben is rather small – and certainly smaller than it appears in media coverage.
• Bunaken / Siladen: These are „gold standards“ for wall diving and reef diving. There are also great macro opportunities on these reefs, but they are more challenging for photographers due to currents and surrounding corals. Siladen resort also offer muck diving at sites on the mainland (just 10–15 minutes away). These sites are a great complement, but cannot fully compete with Lembeh or Tulamben.
• Bangka: Bangka is an excellent “hybrid” between the wall/reef dives of Bunaken National Park and the muck diving in Lembeh, geographically located right between them.
• Winner: Lembeh and Tulamben are the two best options for muck diving among all four. As already mentioned, the gap between the two is narrower than usually reported. Whether Lembeh takes the lead (e.g., octopus variety, hairy frogfish) or Tulamben (nudibranchs) depends on the specific species on your wish list and also on other constraints – like the lengtgh of your stay and interestes beyond scuba diving, see following sections.

Below are two of my videos from Tulamben and one from Lembeh, all featuring material from just 5 days of diving. You can find more videos from both parts of Indonesia on my channel.

Tulamben Macro

Tulamben Nudibranchs

Lembeh

III. Round 2: Walls, Reefs, and Currents (Tulamben vs. Bunaken & Bangka)

• Bunaken National Park: World-famous, jaw-dropping vertical walls, massive sponges, crystal-clear blue water, and guaranteed encounters with dozens of large green sea turtles (see my videos at https://youtu.be/dyJBzbDhTLY?is=SYbmehcVINlx6cXz or https://youtu.be/URkCjy8H38A?is=1mxS3cYejFnGGLTw).
• Bangka Island: A wonderful kaleidoscope of corals and a large variety of fish, paired with great macro opportunities and a few muck diving sites along the mainland.
• Tulamben: The Coral Garden and Drop-Off dive sites are very beautiful, but they certainly lack the dramatic scale and endless visibility of Bunaken’s walls. The colorful soft corals and huge schools of fish at Bau Belah are also really impressive. Furthermore, there is Tulamben’s “Crown Jewel”: the USAT Liberty Wreck, which attracts many day tourists due to its easy shore accessibility. Upper parts of the wreck can be explored by snorkelers, while it remains deep enough for advanced scuba divers and popular among freedivers. It is encrusted in corals and teeming with life (including human life during the day – if you stay in the area, it is better to explore it on a peaceful dawn dive). Overall, Tulamben clearly outperforms Lembeh when it comes to corals, but neither can compete with Bunaken or Bangka.
• Winner: Bunaken & Bangka

IV. Accommodation & Diving Styles

• Tulamben: Multiple resorts along the main road offer various comfort and price levels. Tulamben is also not far from Amed, where the variety of accommodations is quite large. The most common style of diving in Tulamben is shore diving. Villa Markisa is an exception (https://www.villa-markisa.com), offering boat diving while also featuring a great house reef. It is worth to mention that Tulamben is not the only dive area in Northern Bali. Nusa Penida, for example, can be reached within half a day and also offers great dive options and sightings including mantas and (during the season) sunfish (mola mola).
• North Sulawesi: Boat-based diving is standard across all three famous areas. There are many excellent resorts to choose from that offer wonderful rooms, outstanding food, and very comfortable dive boats, but this luxury comes at a price. Most of these resorts are not connected to a local village, meaning you will usually spend most of your time within the resort or on the boat.

V. Brief Comparison: Logistics, Accomodation, and Budget

Feature	Tulamben (Bali)	North Sulawesi (Bunaken / Bangka / Lembeh)
Travel Effort	Easy (Lots of flight connections to Bali, followed by a 3–4 hour car ride).	Medium (Limited international connections and recent flight schedule changes to Singapore make reaching Manado less easy. Domestic flights via Jakarta exist, but Denpasar can be tricky as a gateway. From Manado airport, it takes 1.5–3 hours to reach most dive resorts. Visiting more than one area requires additional hours by car and/or boat for each transfer).
Accommodation	Varied (Ranging from budget to boutique dive hotels).	Mostly All-Inclusive (Dedicated dive resorts). Mid range to high end.
Cost	Budget to High (Depending on accommodation choices).	Medium to High (Due to boat-based operations & resort packages).

VI. Conclusion & Verdict: Which Should You Choose?

• Choose Tulamben if: Your primary focus is on muck diving (especially if you have less than a week), or your main interest lies in nudibranchs, or you want to combine scuba diving with other travel activities on Bali. Tulamben offers world-class muck diving & more on a beautiful island full of diverse attractions, and it is easier to reach. Bali is an especially good option if you are traveling with non-diving companions.
• Choose North Sulawesi if: You have at least one week, your focus is on wall/reef diving, or you have specific species on your wish list that are much easier to find in Lembeh. For world-class vertical walls, vibrant coral reefs, and sea turtles, select Bunaken or neighboring Siladen (both are also great for beginners and snorkelers). Bangka offers an excellent “hybrid option” with vibrant reefs (great for snorkeling) and macro opportunities. You can even reach dive sites in Lembeh from Bangka if you dedicate a full day on a dive boat. Additionally, you can combine diving with a visit to the beautiful Tangkoko National Park (see video: https://youtu.be/K5C9oJC6X6w?is=lmT-S9q98fcSZIED).

Check out more videos from both regions of Indonesia on my YouTube Channel: youtube.com/@ingovision